“everything is Spanish in Portobello market”

Tucked away in the outskirts of London city center is a corner of the world called Portobello Market. While Italian in name and cuisine, it is a proud hotbed of culture for the Spanish community in London.

According to our friend, Lucas, “everything is spanish in portobello market.”

Lucas is a proud Spaniard who found himself in the United Kingdom about 3 years ago. Born and raised in a Spanish home, he developed a true pride for his people. This pride was the lens thru which he viewed the world.

To the Greeks, everything is Greek. To the Romans, everything is Roman. To Lucas, everything in London can be traced back to the Spanish.

Paella, tapas, and more filled the air with its scent in the market. Grocers filled to the brim with traditional cuisine. Portobello Market was Spanish through and through, even down to the locals practicing a siesta.

A highlight of London as taken by a member of our team

Upon our arrival, the lunch rush was just starting to simmer down in demand. It was time to rest, as the tradition of Spain crossed borders into this land. Siesta makes for great conversations when you are in the right places. We learned this quickly as my co-researcher and I found ourselves looking up and down for anyone Spanish to talk to. But how do you start that conversation?

“Hello, my name is Sarah. Are you Spanish by chance? If so, could we interview you?”

No. Absolutely not. Too awkward… and maybe we already tried that and it did not work…

So naturally, we did what we only could do in this situation. Indulge in a light desert. A few years ago, I was introduced to the absolute delicacy that Pastel De Nata is. If you have not tried this before, then I do feel sorry for you and wish that blessing would enter your life quickly. Pastel De Nata is an egg tart famous within Portugal. It might not be Spanish but it is common knowledge among its fans that you never pass by an opportunity to try one, especially if made authentically. So, looking into the bakery, I grabbed my co-reseacher’s arm and dragged her into the bakery. Upon a moment of sheer curiosity, I asked the baker if he knew anyone Spanish in the area.

“Look, I know this is a Portuguese place… but would you know anyone Spanish around here?”

Confused? He most definitely never received that question on a random Wednesday afternoon before. Helpful? As the North Star to the explorers of the past.

Quickly and with lots of character, he darted around the counter, grabbed my arm, and led me outside into the street. Surprised by his eagerness is an understatement to describe how we felt in this moment.

“There!” He shouted repeatedly, “that man, this store!”

Just two small shops down, right in front of our eyes, was a store filled to the brim with Spanish grocery products. Best of all, sitting outside under the shade of an awning was a man named Senior Alejandro.

Our new Portuguese friend began to explain who Senior Alejandro was. He was almost more excited to have found this lead for us than we were to have been given it. Alejandro was a man previously interviewed by UK stations, such as the BBC, for his prominence in the Portobello community and his role in the preservation of Spanish culture abroad.

After being introduced by our Portuguese friend, we got to work immediately in our interview. It was quickly made known to us the pride, prevalence, and strength of the Spanish diaspora.

Alejandro left no crumb of detail out in his story from Spain to London. He left Spain as a young adult with his wife and found it immensely difficult to abandon his home. Not desiring to go but desiring to expand his opportunity, he arrived in England eager to begin his new life. Quickly and unexpectedly, however, he began to run into roadblocks preventing his plan for opportunity. London was not, at the time, so friendly toward his people.

Limitations on where he could live led him to Portobello, a town which upon his arrival, had little Spanish presence. No business would hire him for anything above an entry level position.

“Trust has to be earned.”

They did not trust him, but he was willing to work from the bottom for as long as it might take. He began to work for multiple businesses in the area and picked up a multitude of skill sets. What might have been a discouragement for many was an equipping opportunity for this Spaniard.

Out of these roles, he took the step to begin a small laundry company. This was the first of its kind in the Portobello area and immensely took off in popularity. A place of community and cleaning.

“I was the only one for miles, until people began to realize it was a good idea.”

Soon, the area began to fill with copies. One again, Alejandro found himself with a choice to make about his future: does he continue in a dying market or does he make a risky transition to a restaurant?

The rest, quite literally, is history in the Portobello area. Opening his first restaurant with Spanish cuisine at the same time that a move of Spaniards began to fill the area was a recipe for success. After some time, he found himself with a monopoly of true-to-culture businesses within the span of one mile.

It is not hard to imagine what this did for the area. Spaniards began to congregate, move closer, seek opportunities, and treat the street as its own diamond in the rough. This area expanded so much that it is well known for its language and cultural centre for Spaniards, of which Senior Alejandro served as the VP to for 10+ years. True to his past and so strong as to pursue a bright future where he is, Alejandro ushered in a sanctuary for like community in a foreign land.

In gratitude, my co-researcher and I departed our time with him having received words of wisdom and a hug. If you ever find yourself in Portobello, look for the Spaniards. They are the true hidden gem of London.